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Kathleen McLeod

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@kathleenfmcleod

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@apop Welcome to CWBC, Amy! View
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    Kathleen McLeod wrote a new post, He raised $60,000 for the group that saved him – Howie's Story 3 years, 8 months ago

    Written by Angela Britton from Purrfect Companions of Norfolk
    This is Howie. Most of you already know and love Howie. For those of you who don’t, he arrived in PCON’s care in

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    Kathleen McLeod wrote a new post, Wallace Wonders: What if Dogs Had to Stay Home Alone for Three Days? 3 years, 9 months ago

    You’re going to the cottage for the weekend, you packed everything you need, the dog is wagging his tail in the backseat, ready for adventure, and the cat has a clean litterbox,

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Quiz: Litter Box Etiquette
1.   Which feline medical condition causes the following symptoms: increased frequency of urination; difficulty and pain when urinating; sometimes blood in the urine?
2. Which of the following typically does NOT bother cats:
3.   Unneutered male cats and most unspayed females will mark as part of their sexual behaviour. Spaying and neutering dramatically reduces this behaviour.
4. Stressful experiences in or near a cat’s litter box do not affect his decision to use it in the future.
5. Cats consider two litter boxes near each other as two separate litter boxes.

Claws and Scratching Quiz

1) Which of the following statements is true?
2) The primary reason people declaw their cat is to protect furniture and other belongings from scratching.
3) Declawing can be reversed.
4) Declawing:
5) Scratching is necessary for a cat’s overall wellbeing. You can encourage your cat to scratch the surfaces intended for them by:

FIV HOWIE SPECIAL:

Oh dear, I'm sorry to hear this, Howie. Let's start with what it is, OK?

FIV, or feline immunodeficiency virus, is a cat specific disease similar to a diagnosis of HIV in humans. It is typically characterized by a long asymptomatic period before signs of illness from the immune-suppressed state occur. The major route of FIV transmission is through a bite wound from an infected cat. It can also be transmitted sexually and iatrogenically from an improperly screened blood transfusion. Maternal transmission is much less likely, except in the early stages of the disease. 

So, Howie, if you're a sweet boy and your siblings are sweet kitties that you get along with and you guys don't get into fights, your household is likely stable. You should still ask your Momma to have all your siblings tested to know their viral status. 

As far as worrying about FIV hurting you, well, it can but there are ways to help you stay healthy. Howie, you need to consider some lifestyle changes (beyond cutting back on donuts) if you haven't already. You have an infectious disease and it's important that you are responsible and stay indoors to prevent further spread of the disease to other cats in your community. You need to be careful not to stress your immune system so:

✅ Avoid raw foods at all costs to prevent unnecessary loads of pathogens/parasites. 

✅ Take parasite control medication year-round because people may track stuff into your house and a flea/worm/mite infection is the last thing you need! 

✅ Have your Momma ask the vet about antioxidant or immune therapies that may help you out. 

✅ Vaccinating FIV+ cats is a controversial topic so it's best to have your Momma talk to the vet before deciding if you should have vaccines or not. 

✅ Weigh yourself regularly and visit your vet at least once a year for a health exam with blood and urine tests. This will help the vet detect any changes that could indicate progression of your disease. 

You and other FIV+ cats can still live happy, normal lives. However, cat parents should be mentally and financially prepared for the likelihood of these cats needing extra care. Life expectancy is variable; approximately 1/5 FIV+ cats pass away within five years of infection, and another 1/5 live longer but experience complications from their suppressed immune systems. 

I don't mean to scare you, Howie. I know your Momma has a great relationship with your veterinarian and they are dedicated to managing your health and well-being. You're one of the toughest guys I know, and you help so many homeless kitties, some with FIV. Keep up the good work!

Love,

Dr. Amy Rojman, DVM

Oh dear, I'm sorry to hear this, Howie. Let's start with what it is, OK?

FIV, or feline immunodeficiency virus, is a cat specific disease similar to a diagnosis of HIV in humans. It is typically characterized by a long asymptomatic period before signs of illness from the immune-suppressed state occur. The major route of FIV transmission is through a bite wound from an infected cat. It can also be transmitted sexually and iatrogenically from an improperly screened blood transfusion. Maternal transmission is much less likely, except in the early stages of the disease. 

So, Howie, if you're a sweet boy and your siblings are sweet kitties that you get along with and you guys don't get into fights, your household is likely stable. You should still ask your Momma to have all your siblings tested to know their viral status. 

As far as worrying about FIV hurting you, well, it can but there are ways to help you stay healthy. Howie, you need to consider some lifestyle changes (beyond cutting back on donuts) if you haven't already. You have an infectious disease and it's important that you are responsible and stay indoors to prevent further spread of the disease to other cats in your community. You need to be careful not to stress your immune system so:

✅ Avoid raw foods at all costs to prevent unnecessary loads of pathogens/parasites. 

✅ Take parasite control medication year-round because people may track stuff into your house and a flea/worm/mite infection is the last thing you need! 

✅ Have your Momma ask the vet about antioxidant or immune therapies that may help you out. 

✅ Vaccinating FIV+ cats is a controversial topic so it's best to have your Momma talk to the vet before deciding if you should have vaccines or not. 

✅ Weigh yourself regularly and visit your vet at least once a year for a health exam with blood and urine tests. This will help the vet detect any changes that could indicate progression of your disease. 

You and other FIV+ cats can still live happy, normal lives. However, cat parents should be mentally and financially prepared for the likelihood of these cats needing extra care. Life expectancy is variable; approximately 1/5 FIV+ cats pass away within five years of infection, and another 1/5 live longer but experience complications from their suppressed immune systems. 

I don't mean to scare you, Howie. I know your Momma has a great relationship with your veterinarian and they are dedicated to managing your health and well-being. You're one of the toughest guys I know, and you help so many homeless kitties, some with FIV. Keep up the good work!

Love,

Dr. Amy Rojman, DVM

Some cats have a slightly higher production of clear tears that end up drying into dark crusties. It's generally more of a cosmetic issue than a medical one and may bother an owner more than their kitty.

There is nothing wrong with gently removing the crusts with a warm washcloth or eye wipes for animals. In fact, build up of these crusties can lead to dermatitis or skin inflammation around the area so gently removing them is a good way to prevent that from happening. However, cat parents should keep an eye out (pun intended) for any changes in the amount of tear production, colour of the discharge and of the whites of the eyes and surrounding tissues. White, green or yellow discharge may be indicative of an infection. Squinting or pawing at their eyes is another cause for concern. Many cats have underlying herpes virus varying in levels of severity that waxes and wanes with or without treatment. Cat parents may sometimes notice redness, squinting and discharge that may or may not require medical treatment.

It's always a good idea to consult your veterinarian if any of these changes occur. During your cat's yearly health exam, ask the veterinarian about your cat’s eyes. There are tests your vet can perform to make sure the cornea is healthy, tear production is normal, and the nasolacrimal duct is patent and not plugged up.

In the meantime, keep gently cleaning those crusties to keep your kitty comfortable and picture perfect for all your social media needs :)

Love,

Dr. Amy Rojman, DVM

Veterinarians typically do not recommend feeding raw food diets to cats. There are no scientifically proven benefits to them and there are more negative consequences involved, which is shown extensively in veterinary literature. A major concern with raw diets is that, as far as I'm aware, there aren't any on the market that are complete and balanced and that concerns me about the potential for nutritional deficiencies. 

Homemade diets can be complete and balanced but do end up requiring many ingredients and additional supplements to ensure the diet contains appropriate levels or micronutrients and minerals. It is quite complicated to pull off, so I advise cat parents to consult with a board-certified veterinary nutritionist to help them formulate a balanced homemade diet for their kitties, especially if they have special medical needs. It can sometimes be challenging enough to feed ourselves properly!

Unfortunately, there is not much regulation in the pet food industry and marketing tactics can be misleading and confusing for consumers, but that is a whole other subject for another day! I recommend cat parents become informed themselves and direct them to "The Savvy Cat Owner's Guide: Nutrition on the Internet" and “Selecting the Best Food For Your Pet,” both provided by the World Small Animal Veterinary Association. 

The Clinical Nutrition Team at Tufts University have a great article explaining what raw diets are, the potential health benefits, the proven health risks, and some common myths. 

So, to sum it up, when considering what is safest and most nutritionally balanced for our cats, we shouldn’t necessarily base it on how we feel, our neighbours feel, or how a popular blogger feels. Veterinarians, doctors and scientists have and still do explore the topic extensively and can better guide us in making the best decisions about what to feed our pets.

Cheers,

Dr. Amy Rojman, DVM

I imagine if Ollie, and most cats, could design their perfect litter box it would be your entire living room covered in a thick layer of litter that is used for nothing else but their own bathroom breaks. This isn't the most practical solution for us, but it's a likely reason your cat prefers the great outdoors.

So, how can we make an indoor box preferable to Ollie and other cats?

💩 Start with a huge, uncovered box, or even a kiddie pool, and fill with a thick layer (about 6 inches) of unscented clay or fine sand-like particulate clumping/scoopable litter. For Ollie, you may need to play around with the substrate types to make it more natural. Try using soil or peat.
💩 Litter box hygiene can play a huge role for Ollie. Be sure to scoop it once or twice a day and clean the entire box out at least once a month with soapy warm water (do not use bleach). Ollie probably likes having a fresh spot every time he goes out.
💩 Something we often forget about is location, location, location! So important! Keep the box away from high traffic areas or noisy rooms like laundry/furnace rooms, and away from dark areas or physical challenges (ladders, small entryways, etc.) Avoid dead ends, corners or trapped locations. You should definitely have boxes in multiple locations and on each level of the home, which is especially important in a multi-cat home. You can watch their behaviour to see if one cat may be more dominant over the other and "blocking" the other cat from the litter box. Two boxes right next to each other are essentially the same location so it's not ideal. 
💩 You may have to be more creative with your Ollie and succumb to an outside "catio" with an ideal box that he can get to from inside the home.

I hope some of these suggestions are helpful to you and to other cat parents experiencing similar issues.

Good luck!

Dr. Amy Rojman, DVM

Cats can be tricky to understand and sometimes they appear to get touchy or reactive for seemingly no reason and without warning. Pay attention for these subtle clues:

⦁ change in ear position; ears flat or facing to the side or back rather than relaxed and facing forward), change in eye dilation (eyes may become more dilated
⦁ tail movement; they may wag or flick their tail
⦁ change in voice/meow

Some cats are OK with one or two belly pets and that's it, so be aware of your cat's individual boundaries. Sometimes, however, this behaviour can also be a sign that play time has not gone far enough. Cats can get very worked up in chasing/attack mode and if we assume they've had enough and abruptly stop playing, they may still be in play mode and might attack your feet when you walk by! Keep playing until they are tired out and hopefully they will also let you sleep through the night.

Lastly, remember to never play with your cat using your actual hands or feet as that will, in effect, train her to attack your hands and feet. Always use toys and objects (check out the very affordable Cat Dancer toy, one of Wallace’s Top Picks), lots of distance and possibly hours of (painless) fun with your feline friend!

- Dr. Amy Rojman, DVM

P.S. Check out “Decoding Your Cat: The Ultimate Experts Explain Common Cat Behaviors and Reveal How to Prevent or Change Unwanted Ones” for deeper explanations on “why does my cat…” 

This is a really complicated question and, for your case, I recommend that you get back in touch with your veterinarian to sort out the best way to help you understand what is really going on with your kitty, but I’ll try to shed some light on what I think is going on here. To answer the obvious question:

Apple cider vinegar is not an effective anti-parasitic and I suggest you discontinue adding it to your cat’s water. The vinegar will make the water less desirable and cats really need to drink up for their overall health and wellness. 

When researching online stick with reputable peer-reviewed journal articles with sound study testing protocols and methods. They are the gold standard for information that we, as veterinarians, rely on for information. 

Now, let's move on to what's likely going on with your cat and what can be done about it...

Unfortunately, fecal testing can produce a false negative result for tapeworms because the eggs are encased in packets that won’t be seen unless it has ruptured.  Seeing the live segments in feces is the most reliable indication of infection. Segments look like small rice granules. 

If your cat is indoor only, you are more likely dealing with a tapeworm that is transmitted by fleas. The only way for a cat to get this tapeworm is by eating an infected flea.  Even if you don’t see evidence of fleas or flea dirt on your kitty, it doesn’t rule out a flea infestation in your home. Cats are meticulous groomers and may clear the scene of evidence (and eating them). 

Infections caused by fleas are not benign and can lead to diseases such as skin allergies, bacterial infection, and anemia...even leading to death.  Flea control is multifactorial and is aimed at multiple stages of the flea life cycle – eggs, larvae, pupae, and adult. It can take months of medicating all pets in the home, treating your home with premise sprays, and washing laundry and bedding in hot water. 

Be very careful when choosing products to use in your home or put on your pets, as over-the-counter products can cause more trouble than they are worth. I’m especially referring to most flea collars as they range from failure of therapy and associated negative health effects to severe adverse reactions and toxicity. There are very few over-the-counter products that I would recommend for my patients for this reason, and why these important decisions should be made with a veterinarian. There are effective products with varying levels of protection from parasites and your veterinarian can help guide you in choosing the right one for your cat.

Given the complexity and stages of treatment required, I really do suggest that you call your veterinarian again and set a longer-term action plan to get your kitty in the clear.

Good luck!

Dr. Amy Rojman, DVM


I'm very sorry for the loss of your kitty. One of the most difficult parts of being pet owner is having to say goodbye. As you will have to take time to grieve your loss, of course so will your other kitty.

Cats respond very differently and individually to loss and change, and it seems like your boy is responding by acting out. Your vet may recommend therapeutic solutions to help him feel better and curb his destructive behaviour such as synthetic pheromones, calming supplements or even medication. These aids should be used with behaviour training and the addition of enrichment/activities in the home that can redirect his energy.

He will likely need much more attention from you (more play time, cuddles etc.) than he did before - and this I'm sure will be a two-way street, as it's a gift that you have him to help you through this difficult time.

If he is targeting certain areas with destructive behaviour, they may need to be cat-proofed. Depending on the severity, he may need to be confined to one room in the home where he feels safe and secure and has everything he needs while you're working on retraining. You can gradually give him more freedom again as he starts to behave more like himself.

Punishment should be avoided and redirection and positive reinforcement should be encouraged. Remember to also keep his litterbox clean to keep his environment as pleasant as possible.

It will take time and patience is key. When you feel ready and able to open your heart to another cat, you won't know how your cat will respond until it happens, so take it slow. There is no shortage of kitties out there in need of a good home.

I truly hope some of these suggestions help you and your cat through the grieving process and I'm sending all kinds of loving thoughts your way

 

Dr. Amy Rojman, DVM

This is actually a very common problem as most household pets are overweight or obese. Body condition scoring is the best way to determine if your cat is in fact overweight and by how much. Veterinarians typically look for three characteristics: fat cover over the ribs that feels like the back of your hand (not the front which is too much and not like your knuckles which is too little); tucked waist from the top view; abdominal tuck from the side view (swipe to see a chart).

If your cat is overweight, it's unlikely to find weight loss success with a pet store food, as they are meant for weight management. Restricting his food too much on a retail diet will cause micronutrient deficiencies and enzymes won't work properly, making the weight loss unsafe. Veterinary prescription weight loss diets allow for safe restriction of calories while still being complete and balanced.

Feline obesity is considered an inflammatory disease. I recommend consulting your veterinarian first to make sure your cat is healthy and find out if he is dealing with any weight-related complications like diabetes, joint pain, and behaviour changes among others. Your veterinarian will work with you to determine your cat's ideal weight, the right prescription diet and feeding plan and coordinate monthly check-ins to make sure he is achieving a safe rate of weight loss (0.5-1% of his bodyweight per week). These checks-ins are especially important because as your kitty loses weight his calories fed will need to be adjusted. Most clinics offer complimentary check-ins with their Nutrition Advisor team.

Your cat's feeding plan should be paired with an exercise plan and environmental enrichment to help him stay active. I swear by Cat Dancer toys!

So, as you can see, managing a cat's weight can be tricky. Retail weight care diets can be misleading if you don't read the fine print and the feeding guides are usually too general, making it hard to figure out exactly how much to feed your unique cat. It's wonderful that you are acknowledging this issue and have sought guidance to get you started on the right path. So, go ahead and schedule a nutrition consult at your vet's office, stick to the plan and don't give up!

Dr. Amy Rojman, DVM

Hi Stephanie,
 
That's very exciting news that you will be adopting an adult mama cat!
 
The primary socialization period for cats ends by 7-9 weeks, so kittens intended to be pets should be in their new homes by about 7 weeks of age to best acclimate to the new environment and stimuli they will be exposed to (other pets, children etc.) Kittens begin to eat solid food at about 4 weeks of age, when the natural weaning process begins. Weaning is generally complete at about 7 weeks of age, although there can be some residual suckling that can last for months when allowed. Social play begins at about 4 weeks as well, so waiting until 7 weeks should give the kittens enough time for maternal interactions and social development.
 
For the mama to be spayed, there is not a ‘wrong’ time though I suggest you consult your veterinarian about an optimal time that he/she as the surgeon would prefer. In shelter situations, queens are spayed early, sometimes even when mammary glands are still producing milk. This can make the surgery more challenging and some veterinarians will prefer to wait an additional month or two when all the milk should be dried up and the uterus has had a chance to recover. Spaying a cat is a considerably easier surgery than spaying a dog (where you would certainly want to wait about 3 months post heat or whelping). She could be safely spayed soon after weaning, and ensure she is kept indoors and away from intact males in the interim.
 
Remember to obtain deworming and vaccination history as well from the previous owner so that your veterinarian can review this at her first health check.
 
Best of luck and congratulations!
 
-Dr. Amy Rojman, DVM
Quiz: Serious About Play

Cat introductions can be tricky, so time and patience are always the best path forward. It can especially difficult if the cats in question have never been exposed to other cats, especially during their early socialization period of 7-9 weeks of age. If that is the case, or if their previous exposure was not a positive experience, it isn’t necessarily a futile pursuit, but we have to have realistic expectations and goals. It would be nice if they could sleep and cuddle together, sure, but if they can at least be civil with each other while in the same room, then I would consider that a success.

Mixing two males is generally the most ideal with a male and female coming in second. Mixing two females can be the most challenging. Your scenario is right in the middle.

When bringing a new cat into you home, make sure the cat is initially taken to a veterinarian for vaccinations, deworming and a blood test to ensure the cat is free from FIV/FeLV (infectious feline immunodeficiency virus and feline leukemia virus). Choose an area in your home where the two cats can be separated by a door so they can get used to each other's scent before meeting face-to-face. Make sure the new cat has all his necessities like a litter box, food, water, scratching post etc. After one week, start allowing them to see each other through the door, but not yet make contact.

Any meetings between the two cats should be done slowly, supervised, and in a neutral location within the home, along with lots of positive stimulation like treats and toys. Start with short meetings and gradually increase as things go well. Hissing/swatting/fighting episodes means things are going too fast and need to take a step back. Sometimes, the best introductions can take months, even at each step. You may need additional calming agents like pheromone diffusers, calming diets/supplements or, in more difficult cases, behavioural medications from your veterinarian.

There are cats of particular personalities that may never mix successfully. You’ll discover this if one cat is constantly hiding, behaviours remain abnormal, one or both is urinating/defecating outside the box or starts displaying other sickness behaviours. In these rarer cases, a contingency plan needs to be in place. Can the new cat easily be rehomed? Will the rescue or shelter help with rehoming if the introduction fails? Some cats simply need to be housed in single-cat homes for their own health and wellbeing and it's important that you are able to recognize when this is the case.

Most important of all is not to force anything between the cats and be happy with the small victories!

All the best to you and your kitties!

-Dr. Amy Rojman, DVM

Identify your cat's prey preference and let us know if he prefers toys that imitate:

Quiz: Boredom Busters

What a beautiful specimen your Loofy is, very majestic for sure! Unfortunately, a long coat can be difficult for a lot of cat owners to manage. To prevent these big matts from forming, I recommend brushing daily so you can stop small clumps from becoming large dreadlocks.
 
Now that we have gone past that point and he has large matts, I highly recommend AGAINST cutting them out with scissors. I have seen many triangular lacerations from owners trying to cut these clumps out. Scissors are not the right tool for removing hair matts as matts are normally very close to the skin.
 
Being so close, they can actually be quite painful for kitties and they may swat or bite a person trying to pull them out.
Matts are generally painful for cats even when not pulling on them, and can therefore change their behaviour and negatively affect quality of life (especially when they get really bad).
 
This might be time for some medical grooming at your veterinary clinic, as we have appropriate pet clippers as well as the ability to sedate pets if it's too hard on them or too extensive.
 
Another good prevention option is taking Loofy to a professional pet groomer a couple of times a year to shave him right down, or you could even request something like a fancy poodle cut! This might be the best option in your case as it seems to be a recurring issue even with diligent at home management.
 
Please give Loofy a pet and a brush from us!
 
Love,
Dr. Amy, DVM

Cat breath has never really been known for its minty freshness, has it? Cat food has a pungent aroma and even toothpaste for cats smells like chicken or tuna! If your cat's breath doesn't just smell like cat food, however, it's important to find out why and take care of it ASAP.

Halitosis (foul smelling breath) can be an indicator of an underlying health problem, the most common one being periodontal disease from plaque/calculus due to bacteria proliferation. The bacteria are eventually responsible for gingivitis which further progresses to bone loss and leads to halitosis when hydrogen sulfide is released. Dental disease is not the only medical condition that can result in halitosis. In fact, a whole host of diseases can be responsible including diabetes, kidney disease, gastrointestinal disease, skin infections, and other intraoral diseases like tonsillitis or cancer.

If your cat has halitosis, I recommend taking him/her to see a veterinarian for a physical examination and blood testing to rule out any diseases that may be underlying. Treating the underlying condition will usually resolve the bad breath. If the bad breath is due to dental disease, your cat may require a professional dental cleaning under anesthetic. After this procedure, daily brushing will help to stave away that rotten smell and help to maintain good oral health.

Brushing your cat’s teeth daily is also a great preventative measure and there are many other good oral health products to try in addition to brushing and water additives, like dental diets and treats. Not all products are created equally of course; the Veterinary Oral Health Council (VOHC) is an excellent reference and products that they recommend can be considered the gold standard for oral health care. Good luck!

Cat breath has never really been known for its minty freshness, has it? Cat food has a pungent aroma and even toothpaste for cats smells like chicken or tuna! If your cat's breath doesn't just smell like cat food, however, it's important to find out why and take care of it ASAP.

Halitosis (foul smelling breath) can be an indicator of an underlying health problem, the most common one being periodontal disease from plaque/calculus due to bacteria proliferation. The bacteria are eventually responsible for gingivitis which further progresses to bone loss and leads to halitosis when hydrogen sulfide is released. Dental disease is not the only medical condition that can result in halitosis. In fact, a whole host of diseases can be responsible including diabetes, kidney disease, gastrointestinal disease, skin infections, and other intraoral diseases like tonsillitis or cancer.

If your cat has halitosis, I recommend taking him/her to see a veterinarian for a physical examination and blood testing to rule out any diseases that may be underlying. Treating the underlying condition will usually resolve the bad breath. If the bad breath is due to dental disease, your cat may require a professional dental cleaning under anesthetic. After this procedure, daily brushing will help to stave away that rotten smell and help to maintain good oral health.

Brushing your cat’s teeth daily is also a great preventative measure and there are many other good oral health products to try in addition to brushing and water additives, like dental diets and treats. Not all products are created equally of course; the Veterinary Oral Health Council (VOHC) is an excellent reference and products that they recommend can be considered the gold standard for oral health care. Good luck! 

 
-Dr. Amy Rojman, DVM

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